Madrid Again

I have taken a break from my host family and will spend a week in Madrid and then I have four more days to travel somewhere else, before returning to my host family for the final week and a half stay.

My first day was an incredibly awesome!  I arrived early to the hostel just as a group was leaving for a free walking tour, so I joined them.  What a great choice:  we hit a couple of the places on my list of things to see and I gained a much better understanding of the history of Madrid and Spain. We stopped at the Egyptian temple that was given to Spain by Egypt in the late 1960's.  The location was in a park, overlooking the largest park in Madrid.  I could see the mountains of Madrid in the distance where I had visited Segovia and LaGranja sporting new snow!  We moved along then to the Royal Palace and caught the changing of the guard.  Not as much fanfare as at Buckingham Palace, but more than what I saw in Prague.  The tour guide was a young guy dorm Venzuala and he really knew his history which was nice as it pulled together some of what I have bee reading and trying to learn.  He also took us lot see a section of the original wall of Madrd built by the Moors before the Christians --- although there had been a Christian population in Spain before the Moors, there had not been a city at this location.

.....So, after the walking tour I had a lunch. I just love the lunches. They have a menu of the day for a set price and you have a minimum of two courses, a drink (can be wine or beer or other), bread, and either coffee or a dessert. All of this for around 10-12 euros. for each of the two courses, there is usually a choice of 3 or 4 dishes. These menus are usually only available for lunch, which means between 2 and 4 pm. Of course you can find these for a lot more, and in that case they usually include both the coffee and dessert. I had a huge bowl of lentil soup, followed by beef in a sauce with veggies and French fries...there usually isn't a choice on the starch and French fries are the most common.

When I returned to the hostal, I ran into a guy I had seen when I first arrived and we started talking. I told him I was going to a flamenco show that night and the tour guide from earlier told me that his company could get us in for half price. I had already made a reservation at the same place, but certainly liked the idea of saving 18 euro! As it turned out, Marious was from Montreal, and is taking Flamenco dance classes in Sevilla, and is taking other classes in Madrid this week. He went with me to the flamenco show-- what an absolute treat! This was my third show, and definitely the best. And then to have a "guide" to tell me more was incredible. He told me a bit about the music itself - both the singing and the guitars, and about some of the different styles of dance. I would like to try to fit in another show this week if possible.

Day two ended up being mostly a recovery day for me! I had been up late the prior three nights and really needed some sleep. On Christmas Eve, the company didn't leave until after 3am, and I didn't get to sleep until after 4! On Christmas Day, to bed around 1am and then, since the flamenco show didn't start until 10:30pm, to bed again very late --- for my standards anyway, but not for Spaniards! But, I had another event scheduled for this second evening. The Russian Imperial Ballet is doing three different ballets over the holiday season, so I chose to go see the Nutcracker. This performance was actually "early" at 7pm and I had to check the ticket a few times to make sure I had it right. Then, I was almost late, as I didn't know there was a metro strike --- which doesn't mean no service, but reduced service -- and then as usual I couldn't find my way directly to the theatre. But never mind, as I got to sit with two little girls next to me and their oohs and awes at the costumes and dances added that much more to it!

For the morning of day three I had scheduled a Nativity Scene tour with the local tourist info center. Nativity scenes, or "Belenes" are on integral and very important part of Christmas in Spain. My host family has an intricate one set up (more on that later) in their home and Jose has told me quite a bit about them. When I showed up for the tour, I was the only one there for the English version, so I got my own tour. To begin with I was afraid it was going to be a long hour and a half, but then we really got into it! From one church to another we went, so I saw a variety of churches for different time periods as well as the Belen. I would not have appreciated what I was seeing without the guides information. Some of the Belenes are actually from the 1700's! Some included assumption of Mary (in the background), all had the three wisemen and village scenes. The one in the cathedral was behind glass with audio and lighting that highlighted the area being explained. Another was life size. Others were behind grates in convent churches. The guide explained about the clothing on the figures, and in one of the scenes, the figures were actually dresses in cloth.. We saw some ceramic and some wood and more out of other materials. Some I was not allowed to take photos of. As we went from place to place, the crowds were increasing and we saw some of the same people at the different scenes. There were many families with children and even a group of three priests that I saw a number of times. In Plaza Mayor, the booths sell figures and stables and per implements for people to make their own. We also went down one street where most of the stores sold religious items, including robes for the priests and things for the alter. These stores all had Belenes in their windows for sale. I'm sure some of the figures costs hundreds of dollars each.

You can view my photos here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/117120466845854055422/MadridDecember2012

Must now go and get ready for a symphony performance of Christmas music! It starts at 10:30, but I just drank two cups of coffee, so hopefully I won't fall asleep!

The kindness of strangers

 

The other day I went to the shopping mall and stopped in a fast food chain for a bite to eat.  (okay, I know this is bad wherever I am, but…..)  So, I had gotten my food and went to an empty table.  There was a lady at the next table obviously waiting for someone else to join her.  As I set my tray down, took off my coat, and prepared to sit down, she said something to me, and of course I didn’t understand her.  I indicated I didn’t speak Spanish, only English and proceeded to sit down.  She started motioning me to a chair at her table, just as a young man joined her with their food.  She continued to motion for me to join them, and he invited me as well.  I thought “how awkward”, but didn’t see a polite way out of the situation, so went ahead and joined them. 

As I sat down, I asked if she spoke English, and she didn’t, but said her son did.  So, I ended up eating my lunch with this mother and her 18-year-old son and engaged in a fun conversation of broken Spanish and English, as her son had studied English in high school. I quite enjoyed this chance encounter and answering the young man’s questions about how life is different here and in the US.  We talked about everything from our children to our work, Christmas shopping and what he wants to do when he finishes school. 

When I thanked her for the invitation to join them, she said over and over that no one should eat alone.  Being single and traveling by myself, I often eat alone and don’t give it a second thought.  But joining them not only made my day and theirs (they were grinning ear-to-ear as they left), it had the side benefit of my not eating much of my french fries!!!  But seriously, I have been thinking of this every day and it brings a smile to my face and warms my heart. 

Segovia and La Granja Spain

What a weekend.  Segovia and La Granja - "Little Versailles" and to think I almost skipped La Granja, an old royal palace! 

Segovia has this incredible 2000 year old roman aqueduct and the city is built around it.  The old city walls meet up with it at one end and the other is where the water came into it.  In addition to the aqueduct, there is an old fortress/castle (alcazar) and a huge cathedral. I also think it rivals Rome for the number of churches per capita!  I really enjoyed poking around this city on Saturday. 

Shortly after arriving I had to pop into a store and get a hat and gloves though, as the sky was filled with black, billowy clouds, a snow drop here and there and a cutting wind.  I think everyone in the store was buying the same things!

I enjoyed a small lunch off the beaten path in between my visits to the cathedral and the castle.  They say that Disney based his castle off of this one in Segovia, but I always thought it was based on Neuschwanstein in Germany.  The views over the countryside from the castle were fantastic as well as some of the furnishings inside.  

One room that really got to me was the room with the armor and swords.  Just think, these people were going off to kill other people, and yet their armor and sword grips were beautifully filigreed – why bother? 

When I arrived in Segovia that morning, I had stopped at the Tourist Info Center and asked if there was any live music or plays or other entertainment that night.  And sure enough, there was a jazz concert.  So I got a ticket and found my way on the bus.  It was a small, very hot venue (after freezing all day, I really didn’t mind) and good music.  It was a quintet, Randy Greer and the Cole Dinggers.  I looked him up on the internet just a minute ago, and he now lives in Barcelona and has quite the bio. 

I decided to take my time on Sunday morning and had the thought of skipping going to La Granja.  But, thankfully it was a fleeting thought.  After missing the bus by about 2 minutes, I spent the next hour waiting for the next bus by walking up to the Jewish Cemetery to get a great view of the city, especially the cathedral.  It was a beautiful sunny morning, and nowhere near as cold as the day before. 

The bus ride was just a short, 20 minute straight shot (except for the many roundabouts) through high country plateau ranch land.  It reminded me a lot of Colorado – although it has been too many years for me to say, since I have been there.  I think I read that Segovia is about 3000 feet above sea level and La Granja is at the foot of the mountains that separate Segovia from Madrid. 

What a gorgeous day!  Sunny, new snow on the mountaintops and rooftops, slowly melting and dripping down the buildings.  Warm in the sun, cold in the shadows.  

  

Sagrario had told me there was an old glass factory-cum-museum there, and I found out it closed earlier than the palace, so I went there first.  Before getting into the exhibits related to the glass factory, there was a temporary exhibit on “Belenes”, or Nativity scenes.  Nativity scenes are big here – there is even a tour in Madrid to view those set up around the city.  Jose has told me they used to put one in each of the kids’ rooms, as well as in their main and formal living rooms!  A tree is secondary to the Nativity scenes.  Anyway, there were Nativity scenes made out of everything imaginable: straw, puzzles, cloth kits, wood, glass, eggs (!), matchboxes, etc.  It was a nice surprise to come across something so traditional and unexpected.  Here is the one in eggshells: 

 

The museum was set up in the old factory and a new furnace area was enclosed in the center courtyard with men demonstrating the work.  I know I have seen glass making before, but I don’t remember seeing the use of molds.  They made a couple of bottles – nothing fancy, but it showed the process.  The museum had two sections: one of the equipment and explanations (in Spanish, so it didn’t take me long) of how the glass was made and the other section on examples of the glass made in the factory and elsewhere.  The glass factory was here to provide the crystal and chandeliers for the palace.  There was a small section on stained glass making and displays of some beautiful work.

When I finished at the factory, I headed for the Palace.  Best laid plans…..  I never stick to them!  I entered through a gate into the well laid out village surrounding the palace.  I loved the little streets with the sun, melting snow and long shadows.  Outside of the bars were their sandwich-boards with their daily menus.  I stopped to look in a church and ended up staying for mass!!!!  (I know mom, don’t die of shock!) Then, I figured I had better get something to eat, as many of the places are only open at lunch and if I didn’t eat then, I’d end up having to drink wine and eat tapas (oh, how terrible!).  Instead, I found a place to drink wine and have lunch!  This time I tried the other soup I was seeing everywhere – one with big flat white beans and smoky ham flavor.  (I actually wished there was a way to capture that essence as I ate it so I could share it here.) My second course was then pork fillets with french fries, and a small bit of lettuce and tomato.  The final course was a small piece of cake with coffee.  I had two glasses of wine and of course bread.  All for a whopping 12.00 euros – about $16.00.  In fact, since I was eating “early” at 1:00pm, I was the only person in the upstairs dining room, so the waiter/bartender (and maybe cook?) just left the wine bottle on the table for me!  I controlled myself and had only two glasses.  

 

Then finally off to the palace I went.  As I entered, I thought I’d better use the restroom first and then I saw the exit to the gardens.  (This is kind of like, “If you give a mouse a cookie…”) I couldn’t help myself.  I wanted to be outside while there was still some heat from the sun, and the brochure showed a huge garden.  These were built by King So-n-So, the grandson of King Whoever of Versailles.  King So-n-So longed for the France of his childhood, so had this palace and gardens built.  Absolutely gorgeous.  Even in winter.  The sun was hitting the snow on the trees, which was dripping, then dropping off in clumps onto the shrubbery, which still had its dried leaves on it.  When the snow from above would hit, there would be a lot of crumpling noise as the whole lot fell the rest of the way to the ground.  Then, for background music, there was the chirping of the birds was the trickle of the little bit of water in the fountains that wasn’t frozen.  I walked quite a ways through the gardens towards the mountains to work off some of that lunch.  When I finally returned, I almost wasn’t let back into the building, as the gardens are usually viewed on the way out of the palace.   

The most intriguing things on display in the palace were the wall tapestries and the chandeliers, although there was a bed that I would love to have had!  Well, the bedding anyway.  It was a beautiful purple-ish pink and yellow fabric with silver threads through it in a beautiful floral pattern.  The wall tapestries were from 1400 on and made in the royal textile factory in Madrid.  The chandeliers of course were all made in the nearby glass factory.  There were also many clocks – some rooms having 3 or 4 on display. 

I quickly walked through the final floor of the palace to catch the bus back to Segovia where I needed to retrieve my backpack from the hotel and then catch a bus back to an unknown stop in Madrid – which turned out to be an easy Metro ride from where I caught another bus back to Guadalajara. 

Klutz factor:  Okay, I make the weekend sound so good, but I’m always screwing something up when I travel. 

*I barely made my connection in Madrid between the metro and the train to Segovia – because I stopped for coffee and a croissant along the way.  I had to run – yes run – from the ticket counter to the track entrance.

*I missed my bus in Segovia to La Granja because I walked right passed the bus stop and by the time I figured it out I was half a mile down the street. This is after getting very clear instructions from the hotel, having a map, and asking for directions from people on the street!

*Yes, I had some traditional good foods, but I also ate my late dinner at a Burger King on Saturday night because it was right by the bus stop back from the concert and it was friggin’ freezing out and I couldn’t see anything else open in that area.