I have taken a break from my host family and will spend a week in Madrid and then I have four more days to travel somewhere else, before returning to my host family for the final week and a half stay.
My first day was an incredibly awesome! I arrived early to the hostel just as a group was leaving for a free walking tour, so I joined them. What a great choice: we hit a couple of the places on my list of things to see and I gained a much better understanding of the history of Madrid and Spain. We stopped at the Egyptian temple that was given to Spain by Egypt in the late 1960's. The location was in a park, overlooking the largest park in Madrid. I could see the mountains of Madrid in the distance where I had visited Segovia and LaGranja sporting new snow! We moved along then to the Royal Palace and caught the changing of the guard. Not as much fanfare as at Buckingham Palace, but more than what I saw in Prague. The tour guide was a young guy dorm Venzuala and he really knew his history which was nice as it pulled together some of what I have bee reading and trying to learn. He also took us lot see a section of the original wall of Madrd built by the Moors before the Christians --- although there had been a Christian population in Spain before the Moors, there had not been a city at this location.
.....So, after the walking tour I had a lunch. I just love the lunches. They have a menu of the day for a set price and you have a minimum of two courses, a drink (can be wine or beer or other), bread, and either coffee or a dessert. All of this for around 10-12 euros. for each of the two courses, there is usually a choice of 3 or 4 dishes. These menus are usually only available for lunch, which means between 2 and 4 pm. Of course you can find these for a lot more, and in that case they usually include both the coffee and dessert. I had a huge bowl of lentil soup, followed by beef in a sauce with veggies and French fries...there usually isn't a choice on the starch and French fries are the most common.
When I returned to the hostal, I ran into a guy I had seen when I first arrived and we started talking. I told him I was going to a flamenco show that night and the tour guide from earlier told me that his company could get us in for half price. I had already made a reservation at the same place, but certainly liked the idea of saving 18 euro! As it turned out, Marious was from Montreal, and is taking Flamenco dance classes in Sevilla, and is taking other classes in Madrid this week. He went with me to the flamenco show-- what an absolute treat! This was my third show, and definitely the best. And then to have a "guide" to tell me more was incredible. He told me a bit about the music itself - both the singing and the guitars, and about some of the different styles of dance. I would like to try to fit in another show this week if possible.
Day two ended up being mostly a recovery day for me! I had been up late the prior three nights and really needed some sleep. On Christmas Eve, the company didn't leave until after 3am, and I didn't get to sleep until after 4! On Christmas Day, to bed around 1am and then, since the flamenco show didn't start until 10:30pm, to bed again very late --- for my standards anyway, but not for Spaniards! But, I had another event scheduled for this second evening. The Russian Imperial Ballet is doing three different ballets over the holiday season, so I chose to go see the Nutcracker. This performance was actually "early" at 7pm and I had to check the ticket a few times to make sure I had it right. Then, I was almost late, as I didn't know there was a metro strike --- which doesn't mean no service, but reduced service -- and then as usual I couldn't find my way directly to the theatre. But never mind, as I got to sit with two little girls next to me and their oohs and awes at the costumes and dances added that much more to it!
For the morning of day three I had scheduled a Nativity Scene tour with the local tourist info center. Nativity scenes, or "Belenes" are on integral and very important part of Christmas in Spain. My host family has an intricate one set up (more on that later) in their home and Jose has told me quite a bit about them. When I showed up for the tour, I was the only one there for the English version, so I got my own tour. To begin with I was afraid it was going to be a long hour and a half, but then we really got into it! From one church to another we went, so I saw a variety of churches for different time periods as well as the Belen. I would not have appreciated what I was seeing without the guides information. Some of the Belenes are actually from the 1700's! Some included assumption of Mary (in the background), all had the three wisemen and village scenes. The one in the cathedral was behind glass with audio and lighting that highlighted the area being explained. Another was life size. Others were behind grates in convent churches. The guide explained about the clothing on the figures, and in one of the scenes, the figures were actually dresses in cloth.. We saw some ceramic and some wood and more out of other materials. Some I was not allowed to take photos of. As we went from place to place, the crowds were increasing and we saw some of the same people at the different scenes. There were many families with children and even a group of three priests that I saw a number of times. In Plaza Mayor, the booths sell figures and stables and per implements for people to make their own. We also went down one street where most of the stores sold religious items, including robes for the priests and things for the alter. These stores all had Belenes in their windows for sale. I'm sure some of the figures costs hundreds of dollars each.
You can view my photos here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/117120466845854055422/MadridDecember2012
Must now go and get ready for a symphony performance of Christmas music! It starts at 10:30, but I just drank two cups of coffee, so hopefully I won't fall asleep!
.....So, after the walking tour I had a lunch. I just love the lunches. They have a menu of the day for a set price and you have a minimum of two courses, a drink (can be wine or beer or other), bread, and either coffee or a dessert. All of this for around 10-12 euros. for each of the two courses, there is usually a choice of 3 or 4 dishes. These menus are usually only available for lunch, which means between 2 and 4 pm. Of course you can find these for a lot more, and in that case they usually include both the coffee and dessert. I had a huge bowl of lentil soup, followed by beef in a sauce with veggies and French fries...there usually isn't a choice on the starch and French fries are the most common.
When I returned to the hostal, I ran into a guy I had seen when I first arrived and we started talking. I told him I was going to a flamenco show that night and the tour guide from earlier told me that his company could get us in for half price. I had already made a reservation at the same place, but certainly liked the idea of saving 18 euro! As it turned out, Marious was from Montreal, and is taking Flamenco dance classes in Sevilla, and is taking other classes in Madrid this week. He went with me to the flamenco show-- what an absolute treat! This was my third show, and definitely the best. And then to have a "guide" to tell me more was incredible. He told me a bit about the music itself - both the singing and the guitars, and about some of the different styles of dance. I would like to try to fit in another show this week if possible.
Day two ended up being mostly a recovery day for me! I had been up late the prior three nights and really needed some sleep. On Christmas Eve, the company didn't leave until after 3am, and I didn't get to sleep until after 4! On Christmas Day, to bed around 1am and then, since the flamenco show didn't start until 10:30pm, to bed again very late --- for my standards anyway, but not for Spaniards! But, I had another event scheduled for this second evening. The Russian Imperial Ballet is doing three different ballets over the holiday season, so I chose to go see the Nutcracker. This performance was actually "early" at 7pm and I had to check the ticket a few times to make sure I had it right. Then, I was almost late, as I didn't know there was a metro strike --- which doesn't mean no service, but reduced service -- and then as usual I couldn't find my way directly to the theatre. But never mind, as I got to sit with two little girls next to me and their oohs and awes at the costumes and dances added that much more to it!
For the morning of day three I had scheduled a Nativity Scene tour with the local tourist info center. Nativity scenes, or "Belenes" are on integral and very important part of Christmas in Spain. My host family has an intricate one set up (more on that later) in their home and Jose has told me quite a bit about them. When I showed up for the tour, I was the only one there for the English version, so I got my own tour. To begin with I was afraid it was going to be a long hour and a half, but then we really got into it! From one church to another we went, so I saw a variety of churches for different time periods as well as the Belen. I would not have appreciated what I was seeing without the guides information. Some of the Belenes are actually from the 1700's! Some included assumption of Mary (in the background), all had the three wisemen and village scenes. The one in the cathedral was behind glass with audio and lighting that highlighted the area being explained. Another was life size. Others were behind grates in convent churches. The guide explained about the clothing on the figures, and in one of the scenes, the figures were actually dresses in cloth.. We saw some ceramic and some wood and more out of other materials. Some I was not allowed to take photos of. As we went from place to place, the crowds were increasing and we saw some of the same people at the different scenes. There were many families with children and even a group of three priests that I saw a number of times. In Plaza Mayor, the booths sell figures and stables and per implements for people to make their own. We also went down one street where most of the stores sold religious items, including robes for the priests and things for the alter. These stores all had Belenes in their windows for sale. I'm sure some of the figures costs hundreds of dollars each.
You can view my photos here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/117120466845854055422/MadridDecember2012
Must now go and get ready for a symphony performance of Christmas music! It starts at 10:30, but I just drank two cups of coffee, so hopefully I won't fall asleep!
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